FABRICE PELLEGRIN
ALCHEMIST | Perfumer
The principal perfumer of DSM-FIRMENICH is known for distilling far-flung inspirations into memorable fragrances. His latest for Valentino is Anatomy of Dreams—a chorus of seven olfactive offerings that encapsulate a sun-drenched evening in Rome.
WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU SURPRISED YOURSELF IN YOUR PRACTICE? With the Valentino fragrance Sogno in Rosso from the Anatomy of Dreams collection, I dared to make a real olfactory statement by exploring an intense and contemporary gourmand: a milky overdose subtly contrasted by black pepper. This unique accord surprised even me. It has a singularity that is immediately felt. It is powerful, it is identifiable, and above all, it is a fragrance that leaves a mark. It reflects both my creative vision and the audacity of Valentino.
WHAT IS YOUR TRADEMARK? I like to formulate in a concise, minimalist, and structured way. Each ingredient has its place and tells a story. Nothing is superfluous. At the same time, I love generosity—the generosity of gesture, of sharing, but also the generosity I grant to raw materials. I like to go deep into working with materials, making them speak loudly, daring to be excessive. When I choose a material, I don’t underdose it: I celebrate it. I make it vibrate.
“Each ingredient has its place and tells a story. Nothing is superfluous. At the same time, I love generosity—the generosity of gesture, of sharing, but also the generosity I grant to raw materials. ”
WHAT QUESTION DO YOU ASK YOURSELF MOST OFTEN WHILE YOU’RE MAKING WORK? There are several questions that arise at each stage of the creative process: Am I doing things correctly? Is this the right olfactory direction? Does it bring something truly new to the world of perfumery? And also, Will people enjoy wearing this fragrance? Asking these questions is essential. It pushes me to remain curious, to never settle for the obvious, and to always seek to innovate.
WHAT DO YOU THINK IS YOUR BIGGEST CONTRIBUTION TO CULTURE? I was born in Grasse, the cradle of perfumery, and I have a deep attachment to this city that I am keen to share. Whether during the educational visits I lead at the Villa Botanica, an artistic residence dedicated to perfume, or by training young perfumers in the art of composition and the use of natural materials, I strive to generously share my knowledge. My contribution also means leaving a contemporary olfactory imprint, creating avant-garde signatures that will remain a lasting part of olfactory heritage.
in your life?
