
Stepping into the Hotel Chelsea is like stepping back in time. In recent years, what was once a home base for bohemians ranging from Jack Kerouac to Patti Smith has become a gathering place for a new generation of creative New Yorkers. The final chapter of the hotel’s renovation concluded this spring, when the Japanese restaurant and sushi bar Teruko opened its doors.
Nestled in a space that once belonged to the buzzy Serena nightclub, the restaurant is named for Teruko Yokoi, the Japanese-born artist who lived at the Hotel Chelsea with her husband, the abstract painter Sam Francis, in the 1950s. Yokoi developed a style that fused Japanese calligraphy and lyrical abstraction. The restaurant pays homage to this creative legacy, displaying a collection of her paintings throughout the space.
Amid antique limestone floors and salvaged wood walls, anchored by the salvaged bar from Tokyo’s famed Hotel Okura, Executive Chef Tadashi Ono is inviting diners to explore a menu that subtly blends Japanese authenticity with global influences, much like Yokoi’s own aesthetic. Highlights include pristine cuts of Sashimori’s fresh catches, the velvety richness of Toro Taku with caviar, and the vibrant kick of Hamachi Jalapeño Salsa.
CULTURED spoke with Ono about creating a menu inspired by an artist and his summer dining habits.
CULTURED: How do you feel about stepping into such a storied location, and fleshing out the Hotel Chelsea’s existing culinary offerings?
Tadashi Ono: I’m very honored, excited, and grateful to be a part of this project and restaurant. Our aim is to honor Teruko Yokoi’s life journey. Her path led her from Japan, where she was born and raised, to New York, then Paris, and finally Switzerland. We strive to maintain Japanese authenticity while incorporating American and French influences. This philosophy extends beyond the food to the decor, service, and beverages. It’s encapsulated by the Japanese concept of “Wakon-Yosai,” signifying Japanese spirit with Western aptitude.
CULTURED: Teruko has the largest Japanese whisky collection in North America. What are you toasting to these days?
Ono: Teruko’s life.
CULTURED: Is there a whisky and dish you most love to pair?
Ono: Charcoal grill meat. Yakitori with whiskey highball.
CULTURED: What do you think sets New York diners and dining apart?
Ono: New York boasts unparalleled cultural and culinary diversity. Our expertise in food culture might be unmatched globally, offering daily opportunities for exploration. While dining out has become expensive, the experience is worthwhile.
CULTURED: How do you shift your dining habits in the summer months?
Ono: Summer outings are not really my thing; I prefer backyard grilling.
CULTURED: Is there a rule you swear by for dining out?
Ono: There is no rule.
CULTURED: What are your quintessential summer flavors? A particular dish you recommend for a warm-weather dinner?
Ono: Cold soba noodles.