A salaried restaurant critic may make or break an eatery’s cultural cachet, but it’s the amateur reviewer who truly shapes its unofficial reputation. Every day, countless brazen diners turn to their smartphone keyboards, leaving their mark—be it heartening, scathing, or just plain baffling—in the form of Google, Yelp, and TripAdvisor reviews.
For the Art + Food issue, the inimitable photographer Roe Ethridge visited a quartet of New York restaurants dishing out a cuisine many hold strong convictions about: Italian. The resulting images—shot at Il Buco, Casa Tua, Marea, and Emilio’s Ballato—pay homage to the drama behind the dishes, accompanied by some of the more memorable epithets culled from the customers who’ve tested them. Now all you have to do is go out and try for yourself.
“I know what you’re thinking… is it worth the wait? Absolutely yes. Coming from someone who waited an hour in 32-degree weather at 5:30 p.m. on a Tuesday of all things, yes, it is worth the wait.There is a reason the line is long, and it’s not just because of the celebrities sneaking into the back room. It’s because the food is like an Italian grandma’s homemade Sunday dinner and they don’t rush you.” —Ashley W.
“I went to this establishment with my uncle about two weeks ago [ago] and must say I was impressed … I specifically want to give praise to the doorman with the cool haircut and beard. He engaged in my foolish conversation and never made me feel like a bother. From a former hospitality worker to another, that is what I call true customer service.” —TiaJhane’ Lindsey
“3.8 stars for Il Buco is flat-out ridiculous. Shame on y’all … I’m done sneaking dissing; Kendrick inspired me. Gab G., Jingshu G., Skyler N., y’all need to be held accountable for these two- and three-star reviews. We gon’ give a Starbucks five starts but Il Buco three? Y’all are lucky I can’t comment on reviews…
Anyways, my list of favorite places in New York City is a living, breathing work of art. There are just so damn many of them, and some do get comfortable at the top… The crown is heavy. That being said, Il Buco has consistently been in my top five. Every time I finish eating here I’m like, ‘Why don’t I come here more???’
It is such an authentic Italian dining experience that on this trip we had to wait 45 minutes to be seated even after arriving on time for our res. I was originally slightly perturbed, but sitting at the bar and enjoying with my girlfriend and with the staff apologizing three times and comping our drinks, how could I be mad? Sh*t happens and they handled it so professionally. I don’t ask for much TBH…” —Johnny N.
“Three years ago, my son and I traveled to New York from Kansas City. My son had just been accepted into culinary school, and I wanted to celebrate with him by taking him to a Michelin-star restaurant … The chef addressed my son directly, which was awesome … As we left, I said, ‘I brought him here because I wanted to show my son where the bar for excellence was.’ The chef looked at me and then my son, and said, ‘The bar can always be raised.’
I am happy to say my son graduated culinary school last night. While he crossed the stage, I remembered that night and the wise words of the chef. Now it’s Noah’s turn to raise the bar!” —Scott Carroll (Weekend Warrior)
“Stop everything. If you’re coming to Upper [East Side], do whatever you have to and get a reservation. This is the reason New York stands out as an Epicurus’s center! Exquisite care taken to every flavor and detail to balance the plate … Just do it! Do not delay. This is why we dine out!” —Angelique Swann
Set Design by Lulu Sylbert
Post Production by Two Three Two
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